Thursday, 28 November 2019

CNR Ash Pit





I scratch built this from looking at the remains at Big Valley, Alberta and from a picture I had found on the Internet. I did find a different photo once it was almost completed which showed that the rail on the backside would have been on top of the foundation not on a support as I modeled it. Go figure! The ashes are Woodlands fine cinders. The rail is code 55. The access to the ash pit for locomotives is on a track between the coaling tower and the turntable. For the ash car, access is off the back of the lead to the coal dock. The ash car is then sent out to be dumped on the Qu`Appelle sub so it goes to
staging and then returns back to collect more ash. The car was loaded and unloaded by shovel. All the
foundations and the sloped approach to the pit are made from styrene. I drew the slope sides in CAD
and then printed them on card stock and did test fits until I was happy I painted it in place with my
airbrush and weathered it with chalks and some paint.
They only thing that I may go back and change is to either make a recess for the coupler or move the
end wall back scale 6' so the car sits more centered to the pit. The only tough part of the build was
getting the slope on the track right.
Yes I realize I have an oil burner (CN1392 10 Wheeler from Van Hobbies) sitting there. It is about to fill
up with oil from the standpipe behind.
I have not completed the rest of the scenery because I have not really visualized what I want to do.




The little tool rack on the back right was scratch built to hold switch cleaning tools. The oil standpipe is from Tichy.


Saturday, 16 November 2019

Tools from the cosmetic department

A walk through the cosmetic department will yield some different tools that work very well for a reasonable price. I am not recommending that you take any of these from your better half's bathroom but you can look and ask some questions :-)
In the picture below is a cuticle cutter. You can use this to remove details from cars or locomotives. I use it mostly when I want to remove molded on ladder rungs and grab irons. What is great about this tool is that it will not dig in and thus is easier to get close to the surface which will not need further touch ups. This is a result of the tapered V shape of the cutter.


On the left is a clipper that will cut just like a sprue cutter which if you build kits like Intermountain this tool is indispensable. This one is smaller than my other sprue cutter.  It works well when you do not have a lot of room or an awkward angle and want a clean cut. It is also incredibly sharp. On the right is a cuticle pusher and is also very sharp and can be used for trimming things off flat surfaces like rivets.


These emery boards work well and they do not cost very much. The type I use has corse on one side and finer on the other.


There is also a whole array of different types of tweezers that have very accurate tips.


I also have a bottle off flat black nail polish that I use on my brass steamers to cover spots where shorts on the frame may be happening. It is thick so it covers better than paint.

The makeup brushes I use for weathering with chalks also come from this department or older ones from my wife. They are soft to firm and work very well with the chalks.